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Russell072000_41

The East Face Route

July 28-31, 2000; by Ron Karpel

This is a blowup of the previous picture. I added labels for the major feature of the East Face route. You start in the gully between the First and Second Towers. They will not look like anything until you get high in the gully. The gully ends in a huge chasm and that is where you rope up. You climb about 40 feet up and along the wall of the Second Tower until you run out of easy thing to climb, which is where the Tower Traverse starts. After the traverse you climb up a small chimney and then up the Washboard. Next is this small horn on your left which has only 1 class 5 move. From the top of the horn you down climb about a pitch, traverse some more and start the Fresh Air Traverse, which ends in a small chimney. Climb the chimney to the Giant Staircase and exit on the left, which is the crux of the route. Its about 20 foot crack rated around 5.7. Best protections are a couple of 3.5-4 Camelot in the crack itself, but there are other options using smaller gear too. It is easy from there to the summit.

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